Consider the landscape of your eye. The crease is the equator, dividing the upper and lower lids ( the lower lid is everything below the crease and above the upper lash line; the upper lid extends from crease to brow).
The ideal eye ( when open) is made up of one third lower lid, two thirds upper lid. Naturally, most of us don’t have these proportions, but we can use shadow to create the illusion that we do. For example, you can use a highlighter at the brow area to make a short upper lid appear taller. But remember : There shouldn’t be harsh lines of demarcation.
If you’re not quite sure where your eye shadow canvas ends, try this trick. Hold one end of a pencil at the inner or outer corner of your eye and tile the pencil until it touches the inner or outer edge of your eyebrow. That’s the boundary of your canvas.
Almond
This shape is classic and easy to make up. You can do truly anything with almond eyes. Just keep them looking fresh and simple. Apply a shimmer pale colour across the entire lid, moving from lash line to brow. For added emphasis, take a darker colour and create a soft horizontal V around the outer corner; with the legs ending at the pupil.
Deep-strong
The goal : to bring your eyelids out. Apply a light shade all over the lid. Skip shadow in the crease and focus on lower lid and / or outer corner : For emphasis apply colour across the lower lid from inner to outer corner: professionals use dark shadow along the lash line from center to outer corner. This makes lashes look thicker and smokier focusing attention on the eye, not on the recessive lid.
Hooded
Hooded eyes, where skin from the brow bone extends almost to the lash line, present a where -to -put-the -shadow problem. The solution: medium colour goes slightly above the crease. Stay away from light lid colours and opalescent textures, except at the lash line, and avoid putting highlighter at the brow. finish with smoky outer corners; line the eyes with dark shadow from the outer corners to just above the pupils.
Asian
Stay away from light shades; light emphasizes the lid instead of the eye add depth with a medium shadow, staring near the inner corner and taking it up to the crease ( side-sweeping the lower lid on the way up). Then apply it vertically, covering about half the upper lid. Next , line the entire upper lash line with a darker colours, ending with a slight upward tilt. Line the bottom lash line, too, but end in a straight line.
Round
Big round eyes ( like Demi Moore ) are often thought of as innocent. Women who like this look can use the almond technique; But if round eyes seem too girlish, we suggest de-emphasizing them by applying dark shadow on only the outer third of the lower lid, which “stretches” the eyes. For added drama extend dark shadow one eighth of an inch past the outer corner in an upward direction, toward the temple.